In the cellar with... Benjamin Matthews
Let’s push the boundaries of exhilaration as we ask Ben Matthews, wine enthusiast and sommelier, a few questions.
Wine accompanies the moments of our lives, from the most intimate to the most memorable. To explore this connection and introduce you to new cuvées, I interview winemakers, sommeliers, and enthusiasts about themes linked to the emotions of different occasions.
In a way, I owe the name How to get lost in France to Ben. He had written to me last year to organize a drink with a few journalists he knew. I remember it all the more vividly because it was a Sunday, I had partied the night before, and I was in no shape to be speaking English over wine. Still, I went — and, thanks to the magic of Paris, I ended up finding the name for my future Substack and getting the contact of an editor for a book project I’m currently working on. Just goes to show: always go out for drinks with strangers.
Ben was assistant general manager at the Ralph Lauren restaurant in Paris and used to organize wine tastings both there and at Chambre Noire. I first met him at the latter — where he was a warm, affable, and generous presence. I’ve since learned that he’s a big cycling enthusiast, so I’ll use this article to put it on the record: Ben, when are we going for a ride together?
For the eleventh episode of “In the cellar with…”, Benjamin Matthews has taken on my wine-themed Proust questionnaire.
What do you think is the greatest virtue of wine?
Connecting with others is hugely important, and wine could not be a better vehicle for driving conversation between people.
…And what bigger flaw could there be?
If that conversation takes a bad turn and you start fighting.
Which cuvée for a special occasion?
Something dusty and storied is always nice to share with people. But more generally, you can’t beat bubbles to give people a sense of occasion. Actually, I had a Dom Perignon from 1974 at my friends birthday which was a real treat. No bubbles here but for me it was a very special thing !
…And for a non-occasion?
In England, you might just about get away with Jacob’s Creek — though I once heard someone say you should never buy food or drink you’ve seen advertised on TV. In France, I’d probaby feel culturally pressured into getting a bottle of P’tit Vaillant Blanc from Domaine les Grandes Vignes 2022 which goes down well with little fanfare.
Which wine for love?
Something that undulates on the tongue - I tried Palli et Genesia Blanc, Sous le Végétal 2022 which is an orange muscat à petit grains from Samos in Greece but vinified by Patrick Bouju. It had this fascinating texture to it when I drank it, which seemed to mix cutting acidity with a smoothness that took you on a real ride.
…And for an amicable breakup?
For an amicable breakup? Jacky Preys’ “Silex” Sauvignon Blanc from a few years ago: it opened with a lovely floral charm, but the aromas faded all too quickly. A pleasant but fleeting experience.
What about a wine for my father, who is convinced he doesn’t like natural wine?
First, I’d want to know what your dad thinks he doesn’t like about natural wine. It’s true that, as a living and ever-evolving product, it can sometimes develop aromas people describe as unpleasant. I’d give him a glass of inoffensive Gamay with interesting spice. Something like Francois Dhume’s Jeu de Vin 2021 which seemed full of bright red fruits and black pepper would be a fun place to start.
A bottle to gift someone who doesn't like wine?
One with a funky label that can be immediately be used as a candlestick holder. Suman “Moon Drops” has a beautiful bottle, but probably a bit too complex on the palate for someone who doesn’t like wine.
What’s your definition of the French word ivresse, which means both exhilaration and inebriation?
Being “out on the razz” — there’s a sense of festivity.
Where’s the best place on earth to taste wine?
At the winemaker’s place.
And, in your opinion, who is the best companion to enjoy a glass of wine with?
I’ve never drunk natural wine with my dad, so I’d love to see if I could get him to enjoy a glass.
Last but not least, in the world of wine, is there a particular work you would personally like to highlight?
I’d highly recommend the 2004 documentary Mondovino by Jonathan Nossiter. It’s a story of small versus large that transcends the subject of wine.