Mastering pot-au-feu

14 lessons I picked up along the way

I don’t know what the weather is like where you are, but here it’s so cold it could “dehorn the bulls.” It’s the perfect time to dive into making a pot-au-feu.

Pot-au-feu is a classic French dish, a slow-cooked stew of beef simmered over low heat in a vegetable broth. Every household has its own version, and I happen to have the best one.

Here are the ingredients you might include in your pot-au-feu: beef (cheek, oxtail, chuck), marrow bones, carrots, leeks, celery stalks, turnips, onion, potatoes, cloves, bouquet garni, salt and pepper, parsley, and pickles.

That said, all these ingredients are optional and can be adjusted to your taste—and most importantly, based on how many days you plan to enjoy this dish. Because the simple truth is, pot-au-feu is always better the next day. When I make it, I do so with the idea that there will be delicious leftovers for several days.

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#1
Ask your butcher to tie the pieces of beef together with string, leaving a long tail so you can easily remove the meat from the broth before straining it. I usually tie this string to the handle of my pot.

#2
When it comes to the meat, while beef cheek is the most tender, it’s the chuck, oxtail, and especially the marrow bones that give the broth its depth of flavor.

#3
Marrow bones are key to a flavorful broth, known as "bone broth." To preserve the marrow, rub the bones with coarse salt before submerging them in water. Add them to the pot 45 minutes before the end of cooking.

#4
Unlike beef bourguignon, pot-au-feu must always be started with cold water.

#5
The longer pot-au-feu cooks, the better it will be. Most recipes suggest three hours, but that’s not enough for truly tender meat. I recommend cooking it for at least six hours.

#6
Pot-au-feu needs a long, slow simmer—keep the heat as low as your stove allows. Gentle heat is the key.

#7
Celery stalks and parsley stems add a lot of flavor to your broth.

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#8
When I make a broth, I only add the vegetables I plan to serve with the meat about an hour before serving. For the rest of the cooking time, the meat simmers with all the trimmings I’ve collected in the kitchen—peels, greens, roots, and herbs.

#9
The inclusion of potatoes sparks heated debates in France, as they weren’t part of the original recipe (potatoes were only introduced here in the late 18th century). Historically, parsnips were used instead. But I think pot-au-feu tastes better with potatoes!

#10
Nothing is more delicious than a kinky vinaigrette to accompany your pot-au-feu. A good, mustardy vinaigrette is simple: it’s all about the ratio—one tablespoon of vinegar to two tablespoons of oil, a pinch of salt, and a teaspoon of mustard. I personally prefer red wine vinegar and neutral oil, but the choice is yours as long as the emulsion comes together.

#11
Add chopped parsley to your vinaigrette—it’s delicious. Dill works wonderfully too!

#12
After drizzling your pot-au-feu with vinaigrette, add thinly sliced pickles.

#13
Spread the marrow from the bones onto a slice of toasted country bread with a pinch of fleur de sel and a grind of fresh black pepper.

#14
The best thing you can eat in your life is, without a doubt, a leftover pot-au-feu sandwich. Grab a baguette, shred the meat, drizzle it with vinaigrette, and, if you have some, add a sprinkle of dill.

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