Reviewing David Lebovitz's Reviews

Part 1

An editor once told me that Americans always trust fellow Americans more than foreigners. This rule is something I often confirm with friends visiting Paris: they often want to introduce me to places reviewed by their compatriots. Most of the time, these places they insist on visiting are filled with American tourists, effectively avoided by locals. Sometimes, they’re outright what we call in France “attrape-touriste,” showcases for gullible visitors where you’ll pay more and eat worse than elsewhere.

For those of you who want to enjoy your stay in Paris by embracing a more French way of life, I thought you might like to hear a different perspective on recommendations from the most famous American culinary blogger. So here are my reviews of David Lebovitz’s reviews.

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte

What David Lebovitz wrote about it
“This busy restaurant just serves one thing: Entrecôte and French fries. (...) House red wine is always a good choice and the dessert lists features picture-perfect versions of some of the French classics. No reservations can mean a wait at busy times. If you don’t mind dining early, arrive for the first seating, which is at 7pm.”

My opinion : A once-great institution that lost its soul
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte is one of those Parisian culinary myths that real Parisians wouldn’t bother stepping into. The restaurant, originally located at Porte Maillot, made its fortune with a very simple formula: a walnut salad as a starter, a steak topped with a secret sauce, and shoestring fries. The only three questions you’ll be asked are how you want your steak cooked, what you’d like to drink, and whether you’d like dessert. Nonetheless, Le Relais de l’Entrecôte now has five branches, it’s common knowledge that the portion sizes have shrunk while prices have risen, and, above all, you have to queue to get in – a queue full of American tourists. It’s up to you whether this is the experience you came to Paris for.

My alternative: Le Bougainville!
Institution versus institution, at least here the beef is certified Aubrac (one of the finest French cattle breeds), there’s no waiting line, the wine list hides some good bottles, and the decor is gorgeously traditional.

Aux Bons Crus

What David Lebovitz wrote about it
“French truck stops, known for their hearty cooking, this cosmopolitan version does very respectable versions of French classics at modest prices…Very friendly service.”