There are a thousand ways to get ripped off in Paris—and some have become full-blown tourist rituals. Here’s how to stop donating to the Parisian scam economy.
This made me smile, you’re spot on for so many of them. La Grande Épicerie really does feel more like a fancy NYC grocer than a proper French primeur. But it’s my go-to for Thanksgiving cranberries, i know I will always find them there!
And if you’re tempted by the overpriced marché bio on Boulevard Raspail, try the primeur on Rue Saint-Placide & rue de Vaugirard instead, it’s in season and delicious.
Yes can vouch for that primeur. Also the Raspail market is a good bit cheaper during the week (when it’s not only “bio”). Best central left bank market though I think the one at Place Monge. Weirdly, the Bon Marché, despite its generally absurd prices, stock my favourite Italian notebooks in their stationery dept for only 4€ each. A rare actual bargain!
In French, there's a funny expression to describe conservatives who lack real convictions. As a play on the term "caviar left," we talk about the "tarama right"... !
I completely agree about the fruit and vegetables at La Grande Épicerie. The reality is that fresh fruit and vegetables turn over far faster at street markets and greengrocers - La Grande Épicerie just can’t compete
Personally, I think they could (and i think they should). Other stores in Paris have just as much stock and can manage it. I'm thinking of Les Résistants on rue du Château d'Eau, Terroir d'Avenir, which has several stores in Paris, Maison Plisson, Bd Beaumarchais or Rayon, rue de Rivoli. In my opinion, it's more a political problem: there clientele (half wealthy seniors, half visitors) wants to free themself from the constraints of seasonality and get everything at their disposal. But i think La Grande Epicerie will go there soon enough.
Agreed on all apart from the coffee! It's hard to find good coffee in Paris/ France and Belleville (as well as others) offer really good stuff. €4 is steep, but it's really good compared to Cafe Richard/ Merling! You can drink Belleville brewed coffee in other cafes for cheaper than €4!
Buly is the worst place. Created by a guy proud of his agressivity with his employees, bought a fortune by LVMH and still how cheap they are ! It’s the illusion of luxury — a puff of smoke that vanishes the moment you scratch the surface. I’ve got a good story about what they call customer service; I’ll be happy to share it in another post
I buy my hand cream at Dover Street Market, rue Elzévir. However, for a more Parisian experience, I recommend visiting the Pharmacie des Simples on rue de la Folie Méricourt. The pharmacists answered my questions for a previous article, and I really like this place.
Buly appeals to people who want to take a little piece of classical France home with them without having the taste/budget/appropriate accommodation for antiques. It might feel like overpaying to Parisians but it’s a lot more accessible than some Sèvres porcelain or a marquetry desk. Debauve & Gallais Marie-Antoinette chocolates or Astier de Villatte ceramics or an Antoinette Poisson notebook (and there are other variations on the same theme) all serve a similar purpose for at least part of the customer base.
When people "recommend" La Grande Épicerie it grinds my gears. I am in a few WhatsApp groups for Americans in France (most of the members are permanent residents, speak French etc.) and every once in a while someone will recommend Le Bon Marche or La Grande Epicerie like it's a revelation or helpful "tip."
Yes, they have some specialty items you won't find at Franprix. And I am hitting up the sales today at Le Bon Marche.
But, you don't have to go there, and there are other great stores. And, plenty of well-dressed Parisian women shop at Monoprix (the clothes there are cute).
This made me smile, you’re spot on for so many of them. La Grande Épicerie really does feel more like a fancy NYC grocer than a proper French primeur. But it’s my go-to for Thanksgiving cranberries, i know I will always find them there!
And if you’re tempted by the overpriced marché bio on Boulevard Raspail, try the primeur on Rue Saint-Placide & rue de Vaugirard instead, it’s in season and delicious.
Thanks for the tip ! I will try it.
Yes can vouch for that primeur. Also the Raspail market is a good bit cheaper during the week (when it’s not only “bio”). Best central left bank market though I think the one at Place Monge. Weirdly, the Bon Marché, despite its generally absurd prices, stock my favourite Italian notebooks in their stationery dept for only 4€ each. A rare actual bargain!
A bull's eye on every shot!
Here in the Bay Area we used to say limousine liberals to get across the gauche caviar image. Now it’s just Tesla owner.
In French, there's a funny expression to describe conservatives who lack real convictions. As a play on the term "caviar left," we talk about the "tarama right"... !
Thanks for sharing this - all good info (although I sorta like La Grande Épicerie, especially their bakery section).
Somehow, I like this place too, but in my opinion, their fruit and vegetables aren’t up to the standard they should be. :-)
I completely agree about the fruit and vegetables at La Grande Épicerie. The reality is that fresh fruit and vegetables turn over far faster at street markets and greengrocers - La Grande Épicerie just can’t compete
Personally, I think they could (and i think they should). Other stores in Paris have just as much stock and can manage it. I'm thinking of Les Résistants on rue du Château d'Eau, Terroir d'Avenir, which has several stores in Paris, Maison Plisson, Bd Beaumarchais or Rayon, rue de Rivoli. In my opinion, it's more a political problem: there clientele (half wealthy seniors, half visitors) wants to free themself from the constraints of seasonality and get everything at their disposal. But i think La Grande Epicerie will go there soon enough.
I don’t think that customers at La Grande Épicerie are particularly interested in seasonality and its close relative, ecology!
Agreed on all apart from the coffee! It's hard to find good coffee in Paris/ France and Belleville (as well as others) offer really good stuff. €4 is steep, but it's really good compared to Cafe Richard/ Merling! You can drink Belleville brewed coffee in other cafes for cheaper than €4!
Dans le mille
Fabulous post! I couldn’t believe the velvet rope at Buly. Tres ridiculous.
Buly is the worst place. Created by a guy proud of his agressivity with his employees, bought a fortune by LVMH and still how cheap they are ! It’s the illusion of luxury — a puff of smoke that vanishes the moment you scratch the surface. I’ve got a good story about what they call customer service; I’ll be happy to share it in another post
The very best hand cream (and foot cream) is by Rivadouce. Absolutely nothing beats it.
I will try this one !
Great info but I do like Bully- I have yet to find a better hand cream than theirs.
I buy my hand cream at Dover Street Market, rue Elzévir. However, for a more Parisian experience, I recommend visiting the Pharmacie des Simples on rue de la Folie Méricourt. The pharmacists answered my questions for a previous article, and I really like this place.
Thanks for the tip!
You're welcome. Have a nice day.
Buly appeals to people who want to take a little piece of classical France home with them without having the taste/budget/appropriate accommodation for antiques. It might feel like overpaying to Parisians but it’s a lot more accessible than some Sèvres porcelain or a marquetry desk. Debauve & Gallais Marie-Antoinette chocolates or Astier de Villatte ceramics or an Antoinette Poisson notebook (and there are other variations on the same theme) all serve a similar purpose for at least part of the customer base.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 exact
When people "recommend" La Grande Épicerie it grinds my gears. I am in a few WhatsApp groups for Americans in France (most of the members are permanent residents, speak French etc.) and every once in a while someone will recommend Le Bon Marche or La Grande Epicerie like it's a revelation or helpful "tip."
Yes, they have some specialty items you won't find at Franprix. And I am hitting up the sales today at Le Bon Marche.
But, you don't have to go there, and there are other great stores. And, plenty of well-dressed Parisian women shop at Monoprix (the clothes there are cute).